Wednesday, May 26, 2010

Day 11: Masada, the Dead Sea and Truths and Falsehoods about Israel

Nancy and Gene (Josh’s parents) have outdone themselves (strange term… how does one “outdo” oneself?) by providing for all the visiting guests a guided bus trip to Masada and the Dead Sea. Masada is…. well, Masada. Besides being one of the most dramatic archeological sites I have ever seen, it also has a history that is constantly being reinterpreted. For example, our guide points out its changing role in Israel’s self-narrative  (I’m happy to talk individually with you about this, but as one example,  the army no longer does it swearing-in ceremonies here – only the Engineering Corp, and they only because they were the ones who constructed the access roads to the site).  Again, no reason for me to describe it since you have to see it yourself.
A view of the remains of one of the Roman forts used to besiege Masada

Some Truths and Falsehoods about   Israeli life
1. “Israeli drivers are horrible!”  (F) If you have driven in Massachusetts you have nothing to fear from Israeli’s drivers on the road. Indeed they are better at signaling lane changes and certainly far better about stopping for pedestrians at crossings than Mass. drivers. However, should you find yourself standing in a crowd of Israeli drivers at a falafel stand, then your life is indeed in danger. 
2. “Israeli Food is Horrible” (T/F) We have actually had a couple of good meals here, but when all the Israelis we meet say “well, it’s not as bad as it used to be…” you know that this is not the place to come for a culinary adventure (falafel, hummus and halvah excepted).
3. “Israeli cabdrivers are horrible”  (T) We haven’t taken too many, but from our experience and that of others attending the wedding, I would ask that if any of you know of an honest one, please do send us his name as quickly as possible. The way they take advantage of visitors is shameful (really!).
4. “A Visit to the Dead Sea is A Must” (F) As far as I am concerned the Dead Sea is the aquatic equivalent of Road Kill.  The younger members of our party seemed to enjoy it, but I frankly don’t see the appeal of burning my feet on hot sand, slipping on rocks and staggering around in mud just to immerse myself in warm brine for five minutes. Far better to fill a bathtub with hot chicken soup and splash around in that. 

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